Tom's WIP Khador Blog

[Leudast1215]

Now that worked... well, he's about 20% done. Anyone have any advice on how to paint up the metal bits like the pistons for the arms? What would make a good old, oily, greasy and well worn look?

The skullz are actually quite detailed; bad low quality webcam.

Do you guys think metal spikes would look good, or should I make them look like they're made out of bone to go along with the skullz necklace look? I'm leaning towards the latter.

Also planning on making all the little vents a glowy green with lighting effects on everything. Should contrast nicely with the dark red armor (when it's properly weathered) and make him look really evil, especially with bone spikes instead of metal ones? And an eyepatch!

[RARE CHOICE GAMES]

I took care of the picture thing tom. Just use the direct link and put it in between what comes up when you hit the insert image button. You deleted two brackets thats why I believe it wasnt working.

I like the way it is looking though I wish I could see it better. Oh well though I know what it is like to have a crappy camera set up.

I say try the bone for the spikes...give it a kind of barbarian feel.

[ddaypunk06]

Metal works well with a nice dry brush of either boltgun (40k paint) or pig iron (P3 paint). Then highlight up as much as you want. I either use tin bitz for rusty water drips from steam...orrrrr check out the painting section in the new No Quarter, they detail the painting of a Mule (Merc Heavy Jack's) steam tank. Looks real good and is easy to follow.

I would try the bone, as it will draw a bit more attention to that area than metal.

[Leudast1215]

Thanks. Funny, I put it between the brackets originally, but it never showed up when I posted. Perhaps I only had to re-load the web page or something? Something to test for the future.

Yeah I'm working on getting a decent digital camera. Anyone know of a particular brand sold at either Walmart or Bestbuy?

I agree with the bone spikes they'll contrast better with the dark armor color.

Any advice on how I should paint up the axe blades? This is completely foreign to me. Perhaps I should try to make them look bronze or some kinda worn copper look? If so, how best to do that?

Boltgun Metal is one of my fav colors next to Scab Red. For the edges of the Scab Red armor plates, I'm planning on heavily dry brushing Tin Bitz, then Brazen Brass, then Boltgun Metal, then finally the Silver thingy that compliments Boltgun Metal. Each in progressive lighter layers respectively in the hopes of achieving a well worn look.

I heard something online about "Smoke." Does John sell that paint/ink? I've had trouble with inks in the past (black) so how do I make sure it doesn't blotch up and ruin my model?

For like the Iron bands that surround the shoulders, head crest, etc... I'm thinking Shining Brass from PP's paints (if John has it) then wash it with a Brown ink (again, assuming I can know how to ink it properly) cause the stuff I saw online looked really good in that combination on BrushThralls.

[Pop goes the world]

If you want a nice oily look, give your metal bits a wash of P3 Armor Wash on top of your Pig Iron, and then highlight up from there.

While I love P3's Pig Iron and Blighted Gold, I haven't had much luck with the rest of their metals. While their regular pigments are great, the P3 metal colors tend to separate easily, and get kind of syrupy. I actually prefer GW metals- they go on well, and usually cover in one coat (unlike P3 metals). Otherwise, P3 paints all the way.

I would actually say metal spikes instead of bone- Drago is a Warjack. He is all about metal.

[RARE CHOICE GAMES]

For Inks I would give GW Citadel Washes a try. I really like them. They go on smooth and so far I havent had any of the problems you were talking about.

[Leudast1215]

Washes? I can make washes just by watering down the Citadel paints I currently have. In fact, all the painting from here on out I'm using significantly watered down layers of paint. I had an inking accident with my first Carnifex (he's black-ish not because he's cool) and the stuff just went on wayyyyy too thick even with it watered down. I'm trying to find something that'll go on more or less clear, but will pool up in the tiny cracks/crevices and not stain the way a typical wash normally would.

[Pop goes the world]

Yes... which is what the new Citadel washes are formulated to do... don't knock it till you've tried it, which is some advice I think you could put to use in several different aspects of your gaming.

[RARE CHOICE GAMES]

I second adam's statement.

[Leudast1215]

I thought "Wash" meant a watered down paint thus rendering GW's product kinda redundant.... I have to plead ignorance hence not everything I comment on an internet forum is a criticism

But thanks for the clarification and my $3-6 has a new home.

[Andrew]

Well, if you like the look of the defiler's metal here:





...here is my recipe:
1. Tinbitz extremely heavy drybrush over black.
2. BG metal drybrush, covering most of it but leaving it in the recesses and the like.
3. Somewhat thinned Flesh Wash Ink for shading and darkening the metal...I can loan you some as it is OOP.
4. Lastly, edge-highlight with Mithril Silver.

I also agree with Adam's remarks in all respects

[Leudast1215]

Oi', make a few true comments on the cons of a game system (Warmachine/Hordes) that I myself am currently investing in and desiring to play through the medium of an internet forum was/is just a bad idea in retrospect. I can see the Warseer effect happening already.

Thanks a lot for sharing the recipee Andrew that's kind of the look I was tossing around in my head. Also I think your spider walker thingy whose name I cannot remember is one of your best works I've seen.

But I'm scared to death of using inks again given the inking accident I had. Are you supposed to water it down first, then sponge off the excess from all the raised surfaces with, say, a napkin?

For what it's worth, here's the recipee I used for the skullz on the skull necklace:
1. Black
2. watered down dark brown
3. dry brush of my custom 'Nid skin color mix which incorporates GW's dark brown color and Bleached Bone
4. Heavy white dry brush
5. dry brush of said custom mix
6. white dry brush
7. dry brush of bleached bone

At least that's how I think I did it. it was 6 steps in total minus the black undercoat.

[Andrew]

Na, that's silly. I just watered it slightly to be more of a tint than anything, then as it was wet I just made sure it was evenly distributed. Not that hard.

[Leudast1215]

I knew I messed up lol, thanks.

[ddaypunk06]

That one Khadorian jack has a cool ice axe, that might look real cool with dual axes. could even use some green stuff to have some icicles dripping off them. Or maybe some blood! lol

Andrews method is real similar to the one in No Quarter, except it uses the paints that adam mentioned...which in essence would make both of their methods the same with paint brand being the diff.

The GW/P3 washes work real nice. I'm using the green ink to give my grey knights a different color scheme...like green metal. It came out okay, but I think I can do better.

[Leudast1215]

Not really an update; more a proper example of what I've gotten started with regards to Drago:

Behold, the glory of 10 Mega Pixels!... with bad lighting at night.



Ok I don't like photo bucket, their images are like 320 by 200 something maximum resolution and I get 3 x that on Flickr. Woohoo.

Since it's the only thing actually painted... what do you guys think of the Skull Necklace doohickey?

[RARE CHOICE GAMES]

First off let me say nice picture quality. Wish mine were that good.

I think you got a really good color on the skulls, kinda dirty looking and what not. Good job.

[Andrew]

Actually, you can get up to 1280 on photobucket, you just couldn't find the option I guess.

Skulls look good.

[Leudast1215]

Really? Please do share the specifics because whenever I tried to edit the picture beyond 320 x something it would always revert to that resolution

Ty for the compliments on the skullz; now if I can just get the rest of the miniature up to that quality I'll feel the price tag for this thing was warranted.

[Pop goes the world]

I might recommend taking your pictures from a little further away, too. It looks like your camera is focusing just behind where you really want it to.